FS 2018: A Fractured Evolution
By: Silvia Bus
This was theme that the Committee carefully selected and interpreted throughout the whole night, starting with the ‘fractured’ catwalk, which gave the audience a better view of the clothes, and the LED screens that gave an interactive and more powerful impact. These improvements from the past shows propelled this student-run event into a new scale of sophistication, inspiring everyone to push their boundaries and think differently.
In fact, the fracture from the previous fashion shows is to be understood as an evolution. The committee started working from their mistakes and accepted their flaws in order to improve, as the hall with photos from past shows wanted to represent. The theme was partly inspired by social events that are happening in the world right now, and were interpreted with the fashion choices.
In general, the clothes were very modern and fit within broader fashion trends that have been showcased at the latest fashion weeks.
Overall, the first half of the show had a more corporate appeal, showing ‘workwear meets streetwear’ looks on both male and female models. It kicked off with a powerful entrance of all the models in black hoodies, representing a new and inspiring generation of adults taking control. However, a series of outfits challenged main-stream fashion. The first brand to walk on the runway after the intro, Berlin-based Homs Arthaus, literally ‘reinvented’ standard men working suits, which traditionally would be worn in a factory setting, updating their design and turning them into an innovative alternative to a suit. The girls switched their plain black heels with futuristic sculpture-like platform heels by Katie Gementera, which gave a boost to their darker toned dresses. The first half concluded with a selection of cashmere jumpers and accessories from one of the sponsors, Brora, reminding us that, despite the glamour of the show inside the tent, outside was still our cold and windy St Andrews.
If the first half of the show covered the concept of ‘at work with style’, the second half was all about the after-work fun, with more colourful and extravagant outfits. Lights went down, ‘Vogue’ by Madonna started playing, when a model quite literally ‘smashed’ the screen, signalling the beginning of the second half. The first few looks literally ‘fractured’ the expectations of gendered fashion, with male models wearing bright skirts and dresses, playing with a mix of materials, textures and patterns, especially with brands like Jasper McGilvray and Piece of Cake. Next came the most anticipated moment of the evening: lingerie. The boys’ underwear did not match the girls’ elegant yet sexy looks, but I am pretty sure the crowd appreciated both! A beachwear section was also included, followed by the mini collections created by the Young Designer Award’s finalists, which brought an interesting mix of fabrics and designs that clearly represented a new approach to fashion.
The theme of fracture was certainly meant to emphasise our freedom of expression, the freedom to be who we want to be out of any social constraints. FS made St Andrews experience a different fashion show, by breaking the boundaries and showcasing contemporary fashion, combining looks from well-established designers such as Paul Smith, with emergent ones the like YDA finalists. With over 200 looks and brands from all over Europe, FS 2018 proved that change is possible, by owning your past and not being afraid of the future.